6 Skincare Myths Estheticians Wish Would Disappear — and What the Science Actually Says
We love the skincare community. But some of the advice circulating online is doing more harm than good — and as licensed estheticians, we see the fallout in our treatment room every week.
The short answer
Six of the most common pieces of skincare advice online are myths: washing your face more does not clear acne, toothpaste does not safely treat pimples, "natural" DIY ingredients like lemon and baking soda are not automatically safe, oily skin still needs moisturizer, pores cannot physically open and close, and more products do not equal better skin. Each one tends to weaken your skin barrier — the very thing healthy skin depends on.
At Brightside Esthetics in Huntington Beach, our whole philosophy is built on protecting and strengthening your skin barrier rather than stripping it. So here is the advice we genuinely wish would stop circulating — and the peer-reviewed science behind why.
Myth 1: Washing Your Face More Will Clear Acne
"Breakouts mean dirty skin — so cleanse more often, and they'll go away."
What the science says
It feels logical, but over-cleansing backfires. Cleansers work through surfactants (detergents), and washing too frequently — or with harsh, high-pH foaming formulas — strips the protective lipids that hold your skin barrier together. Research on cleansing and barrier integrity shows that aggressive surfactants disrupt the stratum corneum and raise transepidermal water loss, leaving skin compromised rather than clean.1,3 When you strip oil away repeatedly, the skin often responds by ramping up oil production to compensate, which can fuel more breakouts, not fewer.
Think of it like this: your skin has an "oil thermostat." Strip away all its oil, and the thermostat reads "too dry" and cranks production higher. Over-washing doesn't turn the heat down — it turns it up.
What to do instead
Cleanse twice a day at most (oily skin), or once at night if you're dry or sensitive, using a gentle, low-pH cleanser. Acne is driven by oil, bacteria, inflammation, and clogged follicles — not by a lack of scrubbing.
Myth 2: Toothpaste Dries Out Pimples Overnight
"Dab toothpaste on a spot before bed and it'll be gone by morning."
What the science says
Please don't. Toothpaste is formulated for tooth enamel, not living facial skin. It commonly contains sodium lauryl sulfate, flavorings, and menthol — ingredients documented to cause irritant and allergic contact dermatitis on skin, especially around the mouth.4,5 Instead of "drying out" a blemish, it often leaves a red, irritated, sometimes peeling patch that's more noticeable than the original pimple.
Think of it like this: using toothpaste on your face is like scrubbing a delicate nonstick pan with steel wool. Right tool, completely wrong surface.
What to do instead
Reach for an ingredient actually studied for blemishes, like a targeted salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide spot treatment — or come see us for a professional extraction done safely.
Myth 3: Natural and DIY Skincare Is Always Safer
"Lemon juice, baking soda, and apple cider vinegar are natural, so they're safe."
What the science says
Natural does not automatically mean skin-safe — poison ivy is natural, too. Healthy skin sits at a slightly acidic pH, roughly 4.1 to 5.8, an environment called the acid mantle that's essential for barrier function and keeping unfriendly bacteria in check.6,7 DIY kitchen ingredients sit wildly outside that range — lemon juice is around pH 2, baking soda around pH 8 — so they disrupt the acid mantle, can cause micro-tears and irritation, and lead to long-term sensitivity. Lemon is especially risky: combined with sunlight, the psoralens in citrus can trigger phytophotodermatitis (sometimes called "margarita burn") — a phototoxic reaction that blisters skin and leaves stubborn dark marks.8
Think of it like this: your acid mantle is finely tuned, like a delicate instrument. Lemon and baking soda aren't gentle adjustments — they're a sledgehammer.
What to do instead
Leave the pantry in the kitchen. Use products formulated and pH-balanced for skin, and let a professional guide actives that suit your skin type.
Myth 4: Oily Skin Doesn't Need Moisturizer
"My skin's already oily, so moisturizer will just make it worse."
What the science says
Oily skin is not the same as hydrated skin. Oil (sebum) and water are two different things — you can be oily and dehydrated at the same time. Moisturizers help your barrier hold onto water and reduce transepidermal water loss, which keeps skin functioning properly.9,3 Skip moisturizer and you nudge that oil thermostat again: the skin senses it's losing water, reads "dry," and produces even more oil to compensate.
Think of it like this: a greasy pan can still be bone-dry on the inside. Surface oil tells you nothing about whether your skin has enough water.
What to do instead
Every skin type needs moisturizer — oily skin simply does best with a lighter, non-comedogenic formula. We help clients find a texture that hydrates without feeling heavy.
Myth 5: Pores Open and Close With Hot and Cold Water
"Steam opens your pores, and cold water closes them."
What the science says
Pores don't have muscles, so they physically cannot open and close on command. A pore is simply the visible opening of a pilosebaceous (hair-and-oil) follicle, and these openings aren't fixed-size shutters — their appearance is governed by sebum output, genetics, age, and skin elasticity.10,11 Heat and steam can soften the oil and debris sitting inside a pore, making it easier to cleanse or extract — but that's loosening the contents, not "opening" a door.
Think of it like this: warming butter makes it easier to scoop, but the jar never changes size. Same idea with pores and steam.
What to do instead
Focus on what genuinely refines the look of pores over time — consistent exfoliation, sebum-regulating ingredients, and professional treatments. We break this down further in our post on whether pores really open and close.
Myth 6: More Skincare Products Means Better Skin
"If one serum is good, layering five must be even better."
What the science says
More is not more in skincare. Piling on multiple actives — acids, retinoids, vitamin C, exfoliants — at once is one of the fastest routes to irritation, sensitization, and a damaged barrier. Repeated chemical and surfactant stress disrupts the stratum corneum and the acid mantle, raising water loss and inflammation.1,7 A ten-step routine that leaves your skin stinging is working against you, not for you.
Think of it like this: each active is a guest at a dinner party. Invite too many strong personalities at once, and they start arguing — and your barrier is caught in the crossfire.
What to do instead
A few well-chosen, well-formulated products used consistently beat a crowded shelf. If your skin already feels reactive, see our guide on what to do if you've over-exfoliated.
What Healthy Skin Actually Needs
Strip away the noise and the fundamentals are refreshingly simple: a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer suited to your skin, daily SPF, and a small number of targeted actives introduced thoughtfully. We steer our clients toward barrier-supportive, well-formulated products — and we personally prefer to avoid parabens where we can. Beyond that, the single most underrated ingredient is consistency. Your skin renews on roughly a monthly cycle, so steady, gentle care almost always outperforms dramatic overhauls and viral hacks.
The honest truth is that the best routine isn't the one with the most steps — it's the one matched to your skin. That's exactly what a professional assessment is for.
Let's Build a Routine That Fits Your Skin
Understanding inflammaging is one thing. Knowing what your skin specifically needs to address it is another — and that's exactly what we're here for.
At Brightside Esthetics, we don't start with a menu of services. We start with your skin, your lifestyle, and your goals. Every treatment plan is built around what we actually observe in real time — so nothing is wasted and everything works together.
✨Book a facial or consultation today.
Medical disclaimer: This article is for educational purposes only and is not intended as medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Individual skin needs vary. Please consult a licensed esthetician, dermatologist, or qualified healthcare provider for guidance specific to your skin, especially if you have a diagnosed skin condition or persistent concerns.
— With science and care, the team at Brightside Esthetics, Huntington Beach
Frequently Asked Questions
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For most people, twice a day is the ceiling — morning and night — and those with dry or sensitive skin often do best cleansing only once, at night. Washing more than that, or using harsh foaming cleansers, tends to strip the barrier and can actually increase oiliness and breakouts.
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Yes. Lemon juice is highly acidic (around pH 2) and disrupts your skin's natural acid mantle. It can also cause phytophotodermatitis — a phototoxic "burn" reaction — when citrus on the skin meets sunlight, often leaving long-lasting dark marks. Skip it in favor of products formulated for skin.
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Absolutely. Oil and water are different — oily skin can still be dehydrated. Moisturizer helps your barrier retain water and can actually help regulate oil production. The key to oily skin is choosing a lighter, non-comedogenic formula.
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They can. Layering multiple strong actives at once is a common cause of irritation, sensitivity, and a compromised skin barrier. A simpler routine of a few well-chosen products, used consistently, is usually far more effective.cription
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No — pores have no muscles, so they can't open or close. They're the openings of hair-and-oil follicles, and their appearance is shaped by sebum, genetics, age, and elasticity. Heat can soften the debris inside a pore, but it doesn't "open" it.
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Ananthapadmanabhan KP, et al. Cleansing formulations that respect skin barrier integrity. Dermatology Research and Practice.PMC3425021
Comparative review of facial cleansing surfactants and their effect on the skin barrier. PMC10243403
Clinical measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the role of moisturizers in skin barrier function. PMC12359141
Potential hazards due to food additives (flavorings and colorings) in oral hygiene products, including perioral dermatitis. PMC5573534
Malewicz-Oeck NM, et al. Itch and pain behaviors in irritant contact dermatitis produced by sodium lauryl sulfate. Int J Mol Sci. 2024. PMC11276812
Schmid-Wendtner MH, Korting HC. The pH of the skin surface and its impact on barrier function. PubMed 16864974
Overcoming pH defenses on the skin: skin surface pH and the acid mantle. PMC9135183
Palmate erythema following contact with lime juice — a variant of "margarita" phytophotodermatitis. Contact Dermatitis. 2024. PMC11880883
The role of moisturizers in addressing various kinds of dermatitis: a review. Clin Med Res.PMC5849435
Facial pores as openings of pilosebaceous follicles — structure and determinants of pore appearance. PMC9525434
Roh M, et al. Sebum output as a factor contributing to the size of facial pores. Br J Dermatol. 2006. PubMed 17034515
